The Korean version of ‘say cheese’ is ‘say kimchiiiiiii’, which is as amusing as it is effective for eliciting big smiles in pictures. And boy do the South Koreans love a photo-op.
Kimchi is not just an adorable grin prompt though, it's also a delicious superfood and a symbol of identity and pride for Korean people. It has been an integral part of Korean food culture for thousands of years. You can count on this salted and fermented cabbage, seasoned with spices, being served as a side dish (banchan) with every meal in South Korea.
There is so much more to Korean cuisine than just kimchi though. Food, in general, holds a huge cultural significance in South Korea. It is as much for nourishment as it is for mental well-being and for bringing families together. A meal in Korea is a communal event, usually with one large, shared dish and a plethora of sides. Koreans prefer to dine out, rather than eat at home, so finding good food in South Korea is quite an easy task. Options range from casual bites at market stalls and experimental street food pop-ups to traditional tea houses and five-star restaurants. It’s not uncommon for Koreans to wait in line for hours or travel long distances to eat something specific.
Sink your teeth into the ultimate Korean experience with my recommendations for where to stay, what to do, and, most importantly, where to eat in Seoul and Jeju Island.
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Seoul, South Korea’s capital and largest city is full of contrasts. It's a place where tradition and modernity co-exist. 21st-century skyscrapers tower above ancient palaces and 600-year-old wooden houses whilst a web of exposed wires and unsightly cables hang overhead in a city renowned for its digital communications infrastructure and smart city initiatives. This formerly impoverished city, decimated by the Korean War, is now one of the most prosperous and high-tech places in the world but remains rooted in the past in many ways.
Seoul is also the center of the 'Korean Wave' that is sweeping the world. As Korean dramas, film, music and beauty reach wider audiences abroad, more and more visitors are coming to Seoul to experience Korea's rich culture.
With the division of the nation and its proximity to North Korea, some might think Seoul is a risky place to visit, but it's one of the safest places in the world for foreign travelers. Crime rates are low, gun violence is nonexistent, the population is hospitable, medical facilities are cutting-edge and the police are capable. Plus, Hechi, Seoul's mascot, is widely regarded as the city's divine guardian, who represents justice and protects people.
Seoul is a massive metropolis, with a (rapidly declining) population of ~10 million. The city has 25 districts (gu), divided into 522 sub-districts (dong), with the artificially shaped Han River running through the middle. To maximize time and limit transit, I've split out my recommendations for exploring Seoul by district. I didn't have time to visit all 25, but I did get to see many of the notable attractions.
JUNG-GU
Myeongdong, a sub-district of Jung-gu, is probably the most popular shopping district in the entire city. Pop into Myeongdong Main LOTTE Department Store for Sulwhasoo premiere Korean skin care products, interesting apparel and intriguing food court snacks.
Myeongdong is also one of the most popular areas for tourists to stay because it is centrally located. From luxury to budget, there is something for everyone in this district.
I stayed at upscale THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection, for just shy of a week. There's a spa, fitness center, indoor swimming pool and six onsite restaurants. The rooms offer high-tech amenities, plush bedding and views of downtown Seoul.
Myeongdong is walking distance to a variety of tourist spots, including the following:
It is said that the best panoramic views of the city are from N Seoul Tower, situated on top of Namsan Mountain. I can neither confirm nor deny as the day I visited was wet, cloudy and grey. Visibility was zero, as you can see in my photo below. To get there you can either hike or buy tickets for the Namsan Park Cable Car. Then you'll need to buy a subsequent ticket up to the N Seoul Observatory.
Do not visit Seoul without seeing Nanta. It is impossible not to be entertained by this cooking comedy filled with K-beats, singing, drumming, acrobatics, dancing, comical martial arts, some rather dangerous knife-work, audience participation, juggling, slapstick and even some simple magic tricks. Not speaking Korean does not affect the enjoyment. Nanta is the longest-running show in Korean history and still sells out, so buy tickets in advance (Get Your Guide). It's worth nothing that photography is forbidden during the performance.
If you want to try traditional Korean BBQ, fried chicken and/or dumplings, I suggest the following restaurants in the Myeongdong area:
At Arirang Restaurant, you'll get top-notch Korean BBQ, prepared on a charcoal grill at your table. The meats are all premium cuts and it is one of the few restaurants in Seoul with Western wine options on the menu!
Two Two Chicken is one of the most popular KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) joints, with over a hundred branches. I ate at the City Hall location. The chain has been around over 30 years and is known for its special frying pressure machines, batter and secret sauce. It's a no-fuss, laid-back place with a simple interior and limited menu. When I went, it was full of businessmen, enjoying ChiMaek (chicken and beer) after work.
Myeongdong Kyoja Main Store only offers four menu items: Kalguksu (handmade noodle soup), Mandu (dumplings), Bibimguksu (spicy wheat noodle) and Kongguksu (bean noodles). Seoul restaurants with limited menus are great because they focus on perfecting their dishes rather than diversifying. Order at a touchscreen kiosk, take your receipt with you to the third floor, sit and then wait to be served. It's all very casual, with a simple decor. You'll find cutlery/chopsticks and tiny napkin tissues in the drawer under the table. Expect hefty portions at affordable prices. The place is packed day and night.
JUNGNANG-GU
Yongma Land (AKA Magic Land) is a small, failed children's amusement park in northeastern Seoul that has become popular amongst photographers, Instagrammers and people reproducing videos to mimic their favorite K-pop artists. It’s not the most common attraction, but it’s a cool spot if you want to see something unique in the capital of Korea. You need cash to enter (10k per person). I would also suggest bringing your own toilet paper, in case nature calls.
GANGNAM-GU
Gangnam is the Beverly Hills of Seoul. It's a playground for celebrities and the wealthy. It's not uncommon to see people walking around with bandages after undergoing high-end cosmetic surgery.
Gangnam gained international attention in 2012 after Psy released his mega-hit 'Gangnam Style'. In fact, the song has been iconified by a giant pair of bronze hands, modeled after the signature hand motion from the song, that sits in front of the east entrance to the COEX Mall.
If you enter the mall through that east gate, by the hands statue, you'll find yourself in the largest underground shopping mall in Asia and right by the beautiful Starfield Library. This library is beyond impressive! It is open to the public and free of charge. Most of the books are real, however the ones on the very top shelves are decorative.
HAN RIVER
I thought seeing Seoul from a boat would be a nice way of gaining an alternative perspective, so I booked a 40-minute, daytime, Eland River Cruise, which I wanted to love, but didn't. Perhaps a moonlight or fireworks cruise would be a bit less boring? The most entertaining part of my boat trip was watching the kids onboard feed the seagulls. For some reason Korean passport holders are unable to go on these cruises, so you'll have to show your passport as proof of being foreign. If you do go on one of these river cruises, be sure to pre-arrange transportation, both ways. Drivers had a difficult time finding the dock.
JONGNO-GU
You can easily spend a whole day exploring this district, with its abundance of tourist attractions...And I suggest you do. Here's an itinerary for you to follow (pick any day other than a Tuesday, when the palace is shut).
Start the morning off, bright and early, with breakfast at one of Seoul's most popular cafes - London Bagel Museum (Anguk Branch). It opens at 8am, but queues form long before that. I attempted to go, but it was a five-hour wait to eat inside and a two-hour wait for take away...FOR BAGELS! And London isn't even known for bagels. I ended up at Randy’s Donuts, just down the road, instead.
After breakfast, walk about five minutes to Bukchon Hanoi Village. This famous neighborhood was originally home to high-ranking government officials and nobility. Today, it's full of restored traditional Korean houses, called hanok. While some hanoks have been converted into cafes, restaurants and museums, about 80% of the dwellings remain residential. This popular tourist destination has caused some friction with the residents, so be respectful and quiet while you’re walking the narrow alleys.
Jogyesa Temple, your next destination, is about a 20-minute walk from Bukchon Hanoi Village. If you’re expecting the tranquility and quiet reflections often associated with Buddhist temples, Jogyesa might be disappointing. Although it is the birthplace of Korean Buddhism and is highly symbolic, it's also right smack in the center of the city.
For lunch, chow down on dumplings at Gaeseong Mandu Koong (Insadong The Main location). This traditional mandu house has been family-run for over 70 years and Michelin has awarded them a Bib Gourmand designation every year since 2017.
You'll have an opportunity to burn off some of your mid-day meal on the 20-minute stroll over to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Be sure to arrive in time for the 2pm Royal Guard Ceremony (there is also a ceremony at 10am). It's a 20-minute reenactment of the guard-changing procedure that took place during the Joseon dynasty. Costumes and weapons have been reproduced, based on historical records.
Knock around for a bit and kill some time before making your way to Gwangjang Market, at 7pm, to meet up with your group for the Night Market Food Tour with Jae (be sure to pre-book). This market is a chaotic paradise of food with some of the best bites in Seoul. There's steam raising from everywhere and vendors will shout at you. The market, which is one of the oldest and largest traditional markets in South Korea, is home to the Netflix ‘knife-cut noodle lady’, Cho Yonsoon, who appeared in episode six of the Netflix: Street Food Asia series.
Below are the dishes the group enjoyed during this food tour:
Mayak Kimbap (addictive - as in dangerously irresistible - seaweed-wrapped rice rolls)
Tteokbokki (traditional spicy rice cakes)
Kimchi and Yachae Mandu (kimchi and vegetable dumplings)
Kalguksu (knife-cut noodles)
Dakbal (spicy chicken feet)
Yukhoe (raw beef)
Sannakji (live octopus that tried to escape)
Nokdu Bindaetteok (mung bean pancake)
Ttukbaegi Bulgogi (soy-marinated beef with broth)
Makgeolli (rice wine), Soju (distilled rice wine) and Maekju (beer)
Bibimbap (mixed rice with vegetables)
Kkwabaegi (a twisted donut - like a churro)
DONGDAEMUN-GU
The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, often referred to as 'DDP' by locals, has been likened to a flying saucer or a giant mushroom. If the building itself isn't cool enough, there are often interesting artistic exhibitions happening. When I was in Seoul, it was the final night of the DDP 2024 Autumn Light Show.
SONGPA-GU
Get ready to look down on Seoul from the top of the LOTTE World Tower skyscraper, which stands 555.7 meters tall and looks a heck of a lot like the Shard in London.
Seoul Sky is the name of the observation area located on floors 117-123 of the tower. It's the third highest observatory globally and features the highest glass deck in the world (on floor 120).
I had lunch on the 123rd floor, at 123 Lounge. It is suggested that you book in advance as the restaurant is quite small, but I was able to talk my way in without a reservation.
DMZ DAY TRIP
The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a famous tourist destination in South Korea, about an hour's drive north of Seoul. I opted for a nine-hour tour, with about 20 other people, on a bus. If I had to do it over again, I would have splurged for a smaller or private tour.
The DMZ was established in 1953 to act as a buffer between the North and the South, dividing the Korean Peninsula almost in half. The Zone is 250 km long and about 4 km wide. It is one of the most heavily militarized borders in the world. There are no troops in the DMZ itself, but the area is closely monitored because, theoretically, the two countries are still at war. The Korean Armistice Agreement was designed to temporarily stop the conflict, back in 1953, whilst a more permanent solution was established. But 70+ years later, that solution has still not been found.
Before you decide if you want to go to the DMZ, it's worth knowing that the general public are currently unable to visit the Joint Security Area (JSA), which is where tourists were famously allowed to step across the border into North Korea. The JSA has been off limits since July 2023 due to a foolish American soldier who made a run for it across the border. It's unclear when or if the JSA will reopen to tourists.
Although disappointing to not be able to visit the JSA, it's still worth going to the DMZ, if you want to learn about the ongoing conflict between North and South Korea. Below are the places my tour stopped.
Imjingak Park, located 7 km from the Military Demarcation Line, was the starting point. It was built in 1972 to console those who are unable to return to their hometowns, friends or families because of the division of Korea. It's full of statues and monuments dedicated to those who were separated and it's a place where South Koreans can tie colorful prayer ribbons, with messages of peace and reunification wishes.
Stop number two was Gamaksan Suspension Bridge, a 220 m long and 10 m high bridge built across the Gamaksan Valley, in memory of British soldiers who fought for South Korea in the Korean War. This bridge commemorates the sacrifices the British Army made in a foreign land.
Next, we visited the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel or 3rd Tunnel of Aggression. It got its names from being the third (of four) tunnels that South Korea discovered after North Korea attempted to invade them by building a series of tunnels under the border. The North Koreans were caught before any of the tunnels were completed. Visitors to the 3rd Tunnel must go through a passport checkpoint and wear a hardhat. Photos are not permitted, but I managed to sneak my phone through security (shhh). The tunnel's ceiling is low, and if you're any taller than me (5 feet), you can expect to bump your head a lot.
After the bridge and tunnel experience, it was time for lunch, which consisted of a buffet at the Unification Village. We passed through another checkpoint when leaving lunch, where the soldiers came on to our bus to check all of our passports individually.
The final stop, the Dora Observatory, was the highlight of the tour, by far. Visiters are encouraged to peer into North Korea, with provided binoculars, to see the north's propaganda villages (intended to show the south that the north is a good place to live). This is probably as close as I'll ever get to one of the world's most mysterious nations.
Situated 85 km off the south coast of South Korea, the fastest and most convenient way to get from Seoul to Jeju Island is to traverse the friendly skies. Gimpo and Incheon Airports both offer frequent flights, with a travel time of just over an hour. Fun fact: Seoul-Jeju is the busiest domestic flight route in the world.
Jeju is a fascinating and unusual place, full of untamed landscapes and wacky tourist attractions. It's a true paradise if you are a nature lover. In fact, the island has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site, a Global Geopark and a Biosphere Reserve. It's also in good company as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature.
Jeju is South Korea's crown jewel and a very popular destination all year round. My time there coincided with Korean Thanksgiving or Chuseok, one of the most significant holidays in Korea, making it wildly busy.
Although not very big (2.5 times larger than Singapore), Jeju, like Seoul, is best explored by area. I booked a private driver (Louis) for two days through Get Your Guide. I focused on a different part of the island each day.
JEJU CITY
I stayed in Jeju City, at the Hotel Regent Marine, because it was a central jumping off point and close to the airport. The hotel was on the water, but pretty basic. It served its purpose.
For food in Jeju City try the following:
Dongmun Traditional Market is one of Jeju's oldest traditional markets. Open daily, this market is not only famous for offering Jeju specialties and daily necessities but is also an excellent place to enjoy local dishes. Be sure to try the famous Jeju tangerines.
Namyang Chicken is a casual and local spot for delicious fried chicken and beer. I highly recommend it after a long, hot day of sightseeing!
Visit Black Pork Street, one of Jeju's longest-standing food streets. Pick any of the restaurants as they all specialize in grilled black pork delicacies. The meat is flavorful and grilled at your table, accompanied by endless side dishes.
The stretch of seafood restaurants that line the promenade, in front of the harbor, is aptly named Sashimi Street. Each shop has tanks outside filled with lively fish, so you know it's fresh.
DAY 1: SOUTHWEST JEJU
The day's journey began at Camellia Hill Botanical Garden. Many of the flowers and plants were out of bloom, but it was still a beautiful and tranquil place to visit. You will notice many Dol Hareubang dotted around the gardens. These cute stone grandpa statues are thought to provide fertility and protection and are seen as the guardians of the island.
After enjoying the flora, it was time to see the Cheonjeyeon Waterfalls, known as the 'The Pond of God.' This series of three cascades are set amidst a serene forest. The first waterfall is said to be 22 m tall, dropping into a crystal-clear plunge pool, but it only turns on after a heavy raintorm. The second fall is the most spectacular of the trio. I did not bother hiking out to the third because it required the most effort and was the smallest of the bunch.
On the southern coastal edge of Jeju, is Jusangjeolli. This cliff was formed 140,000-250,000 years ago when thick basalt lava from Hallasan Mountain erupted into the sea of Jungmun. The molten lava rapidly cooled, contracted and split, forming the hexagonal black columns seen today. This is a must-see attraction for all visitors to Jeju Island.
A massive lunch was up next, at a place called Sinwoosung Town, in Seogwipo City. Black pork, a bunch of side dishes and various fresh seafood were all enjoyed. The food was prepared on a grill built into the table. For the second time on this trip, my food tried to escape from me (it was abalone this time).
After gorging, I took a little coastal walk to burn off some of the calories.
On the way back to the hotel, Louis introduced me to Mysterious Road. This road is just a road, but it has earned its name because of a gravity-defying optical illusion. At the starting line, if you put your vehicle in neutral and take your foot off the brake, rather than moving backward, as you would have thought, it will appear like your car is rolling uphill. The countryside makes the road appear like it’s traveling uphill, but in reality, the road is on a downward slope. It's pretty wild!
DAY 2: EAST JEJU
It was raining in the morning, so Louis suggested going to Seonnyeo and Namuggun (The Fairy and Lumberjack Theme Park). This place was less of a theme park and more of a museum full of antique junk. It also had nothing to do with fairies nor lumberjacks, and more to do with Korean nostalgia. It turns out that 'The Fairy and the Woodcutter' is an old Korean folktale and the museum is geared toward transporting adult Koreans back to rediscover the innocence and dreams of their childhood. Not having grown up in Korea, I found it all a bit strange, but once I embraced it for what it was, it was kind of fun...but still really odd.
Next, it was onwards to one of Jeju's most iconic landmarks - Seongsan Ilchulbong. This volcanic cone, formed by eruptions over 100,000 years ago, is famous for its stunning sunrise views. I opted for an afternoon climb but was still rewarded with beautiful views. The ascent took about 30 minutes, with many stops, along a well-maintained staircase.
Lunch was consumed at Deung Gyeongdol Restuarant, where I tried grilled cutlassfish, which was delicious!
The famous Manjanggul Lava Tube was closed for maintenance, so Louis suggested Ilchul Land instead. I was nervous that this was going to be another quirky or gimmicky Korean 'theme park', but was pleasantly surprised to find out that it was an ecology and cultural park with a different lava tube to explore, within the Micheongul Cave.
That night and trip ended with a brilliant moon lighting up Jeju Island and showing off its beauty.
Korea is a place with a never-ending list of things to discover, learn and eat. There are a lot of amazing things about South Korea, but it’s the delicious food that really makes Korea such an exciting country.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Arrival: As part of a plan to support the revitalization of tourism and to commemorate 'Visit Korea Year', a temporary visa and K-ETA exemption for travelers from 22 countries/regions has been put in place between 1st April 2023 and 31st December 2024. You can check your status here. On my flight, health declaration forms were handed out to be completed, but were never collected upon landing. However, entry forms were not provided in flight but were required upon landing.
Getting Around: Kakao T is the most widely used taxi app in South Korea. There is a separate foreigner-exclusive app, but I could never get it to work. Luckily, Uber was also an option. Local taxis take cash and cards and have dispatcher services so you can communicate in English. Taxi drivers all seem to wear gloves. Public transportation is the fastest and most affordable way to get around Seoul, but I didn't use it.
Map Apps: I had to use three different apps to figure out how to get anywhere in Seoul. Finding places in Seoul, using English, is easiest on Google Maps, but only public transport navigation is provided and it was unreliable. Apple Maps provide driving and walking instructions only. NAVER provided public transport, walking and driving options, but it was difficult to find destinations using English, despite being available in English.
Underground: Seoul’s pedestrian sidewalks are wide, open and well paved, making walking a great option for getting around. However, there are often no crosswalks. I discovered that moving around in the subterranean world was sometimes easier to navigate than being above ground. Plus, it provided an opportunity to shop, with endless stores occupying both sides of the underground corridors.
Driving: Koreans drive on the right and often adhere to traffic lights and recognize pedestrian right of way. There is a lot of traffic in Seoul at times.
Electrical: Standard voltage is 220V and they use EU plugs (two round prongs).
Weather: The year divides neatly into four distinct seasons. Spring (April to June) is delightful. Summer (July and August) is muggy and wet. Autumn (September to November) is usually refreshing, although it was a heat wave when I was there. Winter (December to March) is freezing cold and snowy, but dry.
Tipping: Tipping is not customary in South Korea and can even be considered rude or demeaning in some cases. However, one waitress did ask specifically for a tip. In hotels and some restaurants though, you will sometimes see a 10% service charge on your bill.
Drinking Water: Tap water is safe to consume.
Dining Etiquette: Only one menu was ever given out when seated in a restaurant. I think this might be because all meals are served family-style, with dishes served as and when they're ready. Portions are large. Koreans generally use a spoon for rice and soup and chopsticks for all other dishes. They use scissors to cut meat and noodles. Napkins are not readily available; they are more like tissues. Tables in restaurants almost all have a 'call' button which you can press for service. You usually need to go up to pay for a meal. The server won't come to you.
Drinking Traditions: It’s considered rude to refill your own drink, especially for alcohol. Always pour for others at the table and let them fill yours. Alcohol is so cheap that food must be ordered to sit at a table in a restaurant. Koreans pair their drinks with food. With BBQ/pork they drink shots of cold soju, fried chicken goes hand-in-hand with beer and pancakes with rice wine. Koreans tend to start out with a hearty meal, then move on to a cocktail bar, followed by a karaoke bar, and end in a Korean pub.
Language: Korean is the official language of South Korea although Japanese, English and Mandarin are also widely spoken and understood. The Korean spoken in South Korea has been influenced by globalization since the separation from North Korea in 1948.
Religion: Religion in South Korea has been characterized by a rise of Christianity and a revival of Buddhism, though the majority of South Koreans have no religious affiliation or follow folk religions.
Currency: They use the South Korean won, abbreviated as KRW and the symbol is ₩. Notes come in 1000, 5000, 10000 and 50000. Apparently, there are coins, but I never saw any. Card payments are common - and often preferred - in South Korea. Credit and debit cards are widely accepted and, in most places, you can make contactless payments with your physical card or Apple Pay. While Koreans walk around swiping everywhere and probably have no cash in their wallets, as a traveler, you’ll want to have some.
Children: Koreans are family-oriented and follow family traditions. Kids are well-behaved and well-mannered since they learn to respect their elders early. However, South Korea has the lowest fertility rate in the world, with the population expected to halve by 2100.
Cosmetics: Koreans are well-known for their flawless beauty and youthful appearance. The South Korean cosmetology products include unique ingredients such as volcanic clay and snail mucin. Be sure to stock up whilst you're there.
K-Pop: In recent years, Korean popular music (K-pop) has made its position prominent in the global music industry. The two most popular groups BTS and BlackPink, have surpassed all cultural barriers with millions of fans worldwide.
Finger Heart: This trend began in South Korea in the 1990's. It involves the index finger and thumb coming together, like a snap, to form a tiny heart. The gesture was popularized by K-pop idols, to express their love and gratitude to their fans.
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