Although not easily accessible, a visit to Lake Ohrid (pronounced ock-rid) is definitely worthwhile! In my opinion, it's one of the most enticing destinations in the Balkans. The lake is the oldest and deepest in Europe and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. It’s absolutely beautiful, incredibly inexpensive and a great place to relax for a few days whilst immersing yourself into North Macedonian culture. It’s also relatively undiscovered compared to its Greek neighbor, making it an ideal retreat.
GETTING THERE
It was easier/cheaper to fly direct from London into the Albania capital than to fly, with a layover, to either airport in North Macedonia (even though there is an airport in Ohrid). From Tirana, I organized a private transfer via Booking.com, in advance, to Lake Ohrid. The car journey took about 3.5 hours, including 30-minutes at the border, crossing between Albania and North Macedonia.
Although we didn't spend much time in Albania, Tirana was surprisingly mountainous and modern. For a country that has had some stark years, I expected it to be dominated by grey concrete like other Post-Communist European cities. I might need to go back one day for a proper visit, but I digress...
ACCOMODATION
In Lake Ohrid, I stayed at Villa Varosh - A boutique apartment-style lodging in the heart of the Old Town. It wasn't particularly modern, but it was clean, the staff were lovely and it had everything I could possibly have needed. I would recommend this hotel, but if I went again, I'd look to rent a lakefront villa/guest house in the Old Town instead.
SEE/DO
Apparently every household in Ohrid makes their own wine. After years of practicing, a priest and an engineer decided to found Monastery Winery, in 2019. They now produce about 10k bottles/year. The Monastery Winery Tour I booked (for £30.31) started off with Stefan collecting us in Old Town. He drove us 25 minutes to a village with a population of 'eight old people'. The priest's son gave us a tour of the facilities and then we were served five full glasses of wine (2x white, 1x rose and 2x red), local cheeses and charcuterie, two types of rakija (brandy) and a shot of gin. At the end, Stefan got us home safely.
No trip to Lake Ohrid would be complete without getting out on the water. I booked a one-hour private boat trip (for £23.30), in advance. Pre-booking was not necessary though. If you walk down to the Ohrid main harbor, there are tons of boats trying to sell you tours and I'm certain you can negotiate. I really wish I had booked a longer excursion; one hour was not enough. It was so peaceful and beautiful being on the lake. Because the tour was private, the captain was happy to drop us off at Cuba Libre Beach Club, instead of back at the Old Town.
The rest of the day was spent at Cuba Libre Beach & Bar. I ate there, I drank there, I sunned myself there and I think I spent £35 in about six hours. You can't really spend money here, even if you try!
For the most beautiful views of the lake, hike up the hill above the Church of Saint John the Theologian.
After visiting Church of Saint John the Theologian, walk back along the man-made boardwalk.
CONSUME
My favorite restaurant in Lake Ohrid Old Town was Restaurant Kajche. They have their own pier with unobstructed views of the lake. The service was great and the portions were generous. A few bottles of wine, some starters, two mains and a few sides all came to about £33 each. Be prepared for a lot of hungry cats to be hanging around, and begging.
Located right on the water, Dolna Porta was a nice spot to enjoy your breakfast
For fine dining, eat at Kaneo. From their terrace, you'll have views of one of the most famous sights - Church of Saint John the Theologian. it can get busy, so make a reservation for a lakeside table in advance.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Safety: The Republic of North Macedonia is one of the smallest and poorest countries in Europe, but it is perfectly safe for travelers, apart from maybe near the border with Kosovo. Petty crimes do exist, but they are rare.
Visa: North Macedonia is not part of the EU nor the Schengen Zone, but a visa is not required for Europeans and many other foreign nationals.
Currency: Since it's not part of the EU, North Macedonia does not use the Euro. Their currency is the Denar. Macedonia is arguably the cheapest country in Europe. When I went (July 2024) £1 GBP = 73 Macedonian Denars.
Beaches: The lake is crystal clear and very clean, but its beaches are rocky. I suggest bringing water shoes.
Transportation: There was no Uber and taxis were not plentiful, but there were water taxis. You can get to most places you'll need to go by foot.
High Season: The majority of visitors come from around Macedonia itself or from neighboring countries. The shore of Ohrid is at its busiest in July and August - so don't come expecting an unspoiled paradise.
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